Monday, July 26, 2010

THE SPANISH COURT HOTEL, KINGSTON


A Kingston overnight presents challenges to the out-of-town businesswoman. Some hotels are too big, with lobbies always overflowing with event traffic. Others are too small, more suitable for those on more private appointments. In choosing one to meet professional needs, the unaccompanied lady has few appropriate selections.

The Spanish Court Hotel, Kingston’s newest, is one such option -- an oasis of beauty and comfort in the middle of bustling New Kingston that is small enough to avoid that ‘lost’ feeling, while sociable enough to be a preferred resting spot and meeting place for those who value being surrounded on all sides by aspects of beauty. For indeed, everything within the Spanish Court Hotel is quite simply Beautiful, with a capital B.

The Spanish Court is the major opus of Realtor Chris Issa, whose family n ame is synonymous with Jamaica’s hotel industry. This is his first venture into the business and it is quite a spectacular entrance. It is clear that, faced with the reality of transforming a small shopping plaza into a 3-storey hotel, Chris Issa made bold decisions that the beauty of the design and décor would compensate for its compact size. So at every turn and level, the Spanish Court Hotel presents eye candy, whether in the welcoming red walls surrounding the burnished gold Reception Desk, or the startling turquoise and black silk shag carpet that complements the clear blue glass vases and bottles decorating the shelves of the Library/Sitting Room.

The glass-windowed ground floor public areas are divided only by floor-to-ceiling angled wooden louvers that separate the spaces psychologically while allowing free access to breezes and views of the beautiful interiors. Bold colours, dark brown wood, lounge chairs in Zebra patterns or bright blues, and Lucite-backed chairs of modern design blend harmoniously against the muted lighting from gauze-draped windows. Chandeliers are unexpected and black and white photographs decorate red walls.

Along the corridor to my room, the wall around each door was painted a different colour that added a bright lift. Entry to my room was even more impressive. First the bellman inserted the plastic key into the door and opened it, then he inserted the card into a slot by the door and the electricity came on while he explained that each time I left the room and removed the key, all the electricity in the room would be turned off. That nice environmental touch prefaced what lay ahead.

My bed had six pillows, four covered in delightful Egyptian cotton, two decorated in green linen and red silk to match the red silk duvet at the foot of the bed. Big wooden drawers were matched by wooden (not metal or plastic!) wastebaskets. In the bathroom Kohler basin and fixtures fed a bath that was not coffin-shaped, but oval with arm rests that made me glad I had packed my Starfish Oils bath salts. The Rusk Sensories soaps and shampoos are sweet-smelling and creamy. In the fridge were bottles of water and a plate of sliced fruits and as I nibbled, a knock at the door introduced housekeeper Ayesha bearing a thick cotton pique bathrobe. The huge flat screen TV tempted, but business called and I headed for my appointment.

Returning late afternoon, it was time to enjoy a cool juice on the deck surveying the unique beauty of water flowing over the edges of the turquoise-tiled lap pool that deserves to be used -– such a good idea for the limited space. The view over New Kingston’s towers stretched further as the city’s light twinkled on and it was time for dinner.

My girlfriend postponed her catch-up news as she ooh-ed and ahh-ed about how beautiful the hotel was. We dined on thick and spicy pumpkin soup sprinkled with parsley, a balsam vinaigrette salad, then snapper in rich, creamy coconut sauce with cauliflower and carrots and rice and peas. Yumm. No space for dessert and no thanks to coffee, just water please, as Bridgette, the black-uniformed dining room staff hovered professionally.

My night’s rest enjoyed the comfort of the sheets and the total darkness that the drawn blinds provided, a welcome inkiness that made me rise afresh next morning. Ten laps on foot around (not, unfortunately, in) the lap pool on the deck gave me the equivalent of my regular morning walk and soon it was time to descend to breakfast. The dining room was abuzz with accents – Spanish, American, French – as I assembled fruit, yoghurt, toast and boiled egg from the buffet. At the table next to me, Jamaican breakfast was ordered, while staff offered newspapers and coffee.

Heading upstairs to pack, I was greeted by Lee Ann Godfrey, the Spanish Court’s manager, who comes to Kingston after 6 ½ years at Beaches Boscobel in St. Mary. She tells me that the hotel’s décor designer is Allison Antrobus, daughter of noted Jamaican Women’s Bureau pioneer Peggy Antrobus. Two generations of strong, creative Jamaican women have resulted in a beautiful, classy and modernistic hotel in which this particular Jamaican woman feels so at home. Having a female manager is another plus and Lee Ann tells me bookings are looking very healthy.

As I sat reading the glossy coffee table books as an excuse to enjoy the cool turquoise and blue colours of the Library, I could see that I was not the only person impressed by this beautiful little hotel, as I was the subject of several of the many photographs that arriving guests and sightseers were taking of the decor all the time I was there. I will return to the Spanish Court Hotel. This time I will bring my swimsuit for the lap pool.










Sunday, July 25, 2010

SLEEPING OVER – HOLIDAY INN SUNSPREE – ROSE HALL





It’s been a long time since I last stayed at the Holiday Inn, Rose Hall and it’s always good to see how properties have ‘grown up’ as new owners make changes and improvements. In the years since it first opened, this property has changed hands several times and is currently owned by Octagon Hotels Ltd. The Hendrickson family, Jamaican operators of the Courtleigh and Knutsford Court Hotels in Kingston, purchased the hotel last year August, renovated the property completely and re-opened to the public in October 2008 as the Holiday Inn Sunspree, a family all-inclusive.

Finding that the hotel offers local rates of an affordable US$85 per person per night with children under 12 staying and eating free, we felt it would be a good place for a summer holiday break, so we set out from Kingston and after a pleasant 4-hour drive soon found ourselves arriving via the new highway into Montego Bay, cruising past the verdant gardens and golf courses strung out along the landscaped verges of Rose Hall, before turning into the Holiday Inn Sunspree.

The size of the hotel’s 524 rooms spread several tower blocks was awe-inspiring and the lobby was full of arriving guests moving about, but the welcome smile from check-in clerk Marsha Watson was just as large. A fruit punch was offered and Bellman Wayne walked us through the flowering gardens lined by Royal Palms to the lift for our tower block. The rooms set on the 3rd floor faced the sea and we opened the sliding door to let in the fresh breezes, hoping there would be no mosquitoes flying in at night. Thankfully, there weren’t.

MOBAY NIGHT LIFE
With Mobay’s night life within easy reach, we opted to spend our first evening at the nearby Rose Hall Aqueduct venue enjoying the opening night of the CCGI entertainment festival. The event, organized to raise funds for school computer labs, included an excellent dance tableau of Jamaican music through the ages choreographed by L’Antoinette Stynes, a stellar performance by Tessanne Chin, and the music of reggae band Chalice and it was lovely to relax and enjoy the cool breezes, lively company and good music.

It’s always nice to return to a hotel room to find the beds turned down. This simple act puts a hotel in a certain class, and it was good to see this sign at the Holiday Inn. We rose early for buffet breakfast in the huge dining room and noticed that perhaps half the guests were Black people from America, Canada, Britain or Jamaica. This made the hotel feel very comfortable for us vacationing Jamaicans and it was clear that the staff was used to giving both Black and White guests equal treatment.

ZIPLINE CANOPY TOUR
Breakfast over, we boarded a bus that had come to take us to the start of our holiday adventure. We had chosen the Chukka Zipline Canopy Tour, as this was something new for us Jamaicans who have experienced all the usual attractions. I am scared of heights, but everyone was ready for the adventure. After a rocky ride up into the hills of the Rose Hall estate, we arrived at the start where a bright young man named David McLean welcomed us all in a manner so enthusiastic, so happy and so Jamaican that it was clear that this was going to be a special experience for us all. David carefully strapped and buckled us into safety harnesses, hard hats and gloves, explained in detail the procedures and safety measures, then took us to a platform on the edge of the hillside covered densely with tall trees.

Attached to one such tree was a wire attached to another tree in the distance with another platform. David clipped us one at a time to the wire and we each slid with gravity momentum to a platform at the other end of the wire. Then hooked the next wires, we continued sliding our way in rapid descent from one platform to the next through the forest, screaming at the exhilarating thrill of being both in danger and safe at the same time. One scream-making slide went perfectly vertically from up to down in seconds. Another brought a bright vista of the luxurious Rose Hall residential community and the far away seascape.

The screams that accompanied each zipline journey were mixed with joy and excitement, and the visitors from California, Ohio and Germany (including a 10 year old boy) were full of praise when it ended, saying the adrenaline rush and the spectacular views made a great first-time vacation experience.

After the tour, I spoke with the other personality-plus young Jamaicans Tricia Knott, Wendy Sutherland and Monique Griffiths who run the tour office, who told me there are special discounts for Jamaicans on all Chukka Tours, which include two other Zipline tours at Montpelier and Llandovery in St. James, plus their River Tubing, Bike and Jeep Safaris and the Horse Ride & Swim. For me, it was wonderful to just be in the middle of the Jamaican countryside, with views of rolling hills and green trees undisturbed for miles.

POOLSIDE ENTERTAINMENT
We could do nothing but rest when we returned to the Holiday Inn. Descending to dinner, we found a sumptuous buffet laid out that included a variety of dishes for my vegetarian taste including grilled eggplant, scalloped potatoes, vegetable risotto, salmon steaks and a wide variety of salads. Elsewhere on the buffet table were leg of lamb, pasta and pizza, burritos, jerk chicken and pork, plus a wide selection of creamy pastries, cheeses and fruit. I couldn’t help going for seconds.



With full stomachs, we joined the other guests resting post-dinner around the pool. The dining room verandah and upstairs balconies, as well as poolside lounge chairs that had earlier held sun tanned bodies, became front row seats for an excellent evening’s entertainment on the well-positioned pool stage. We were pleasantly pleased to enjoy some excellent Jamaican performers, beginning with the Magic Moment jazz band that played a very professional set, singer Dennis Smith and especially a vibrant young steel band that was more orchestra than just plain pan. At the end of their performance the foreign guests flocked them to purchase CDs and Videos, having been asked prior to their performance to respect their copyright rights and not film them. Wise artist management!

SOL MER SPA
All packed next morning and with a big breakfast over, I decided not to leave without indulging myself in the ultimate luxury -- a pedicure. So with a few more hours to checkout I visited the hotel’s Sol Mer Spa and relaxed, while 24-year old Tevon Green demonstrated the cosmetology skills he learnt at the MoBay HEART Academy with a salt, sugar and coffee foot scrub before painting on some delicate pink toenail polish. Never had a man do my pedicure before, but believe me, it was excellent!

All too soon the restful country break was over. Just a few more moments to feast our eyes on the blue sea, white sand beach and the endless sunshine that people pay so much money to come and enjoy. For us there were no tickets to buy, no flight to catch, just a promise to do this more often – take a vacation in our own Beautiful Jamaica.