SLEEPING OVER - Breezes Runaway Bay

RUN AWAY TO RUNAWAY BAY
Imagine starting your day by stepping out of your bedroom and into your own private plunge pool! A waterfall gushes from a wall fountain and the sound of its bubbling flow soothes as you slip into water made blue by small turquoise mosaic tiles. You lean your head back under its invigorating shower. The sun shines overhead and a cool breeze rustles the lush palm trees at patio end that screen this special luxury. BLISS!!!

This is the unique pleasure of the new Verandah Suite rooms of Breezes Runaway Bay Resort and Golf Club, where The Traveler spent an idyllic weekend. It's one of eleven Breezes resorts in Jamaica, Cuba, Curacao, Brazil, the Bahamas and Panama and though perhaps the oldest property in the chain, a recent refurbish has made the hotel seem new again, morphing from a former incarnation, yet keeping the basic elements that made it memorable.

For instance, the 'new' includes the Verandah Suite rooms-with-a-pool, which are a special accommodation option lining the spacious grounds between two room blocks. Once a grassy park, the space between now houses the Breezes Blue Mahoe Spa – a tree-covered oasis set in a tropical garden between the one-bedroom suite blocks.
Also new are the three large free-form pools and 3 jacuzzi overlooking the sea. These came in handy that weekend for vacationers whose tans needed 'basting' with water, as the prevailing and very breezy Northern winds that were making the hotel earn its name, had made the sea too rough for swimming. Despite the winds, the beach and sea were as blue and as beautiful as they were when the hotel was first built decades ago.

The coral reef that stretches several miles along the coast of Runaway Bay continues to grind itself into white sand on rough days to keep the beach beautiful. On calm days makes the beach a wonderful and protected swimming pool across the front of the hotel, with ample space for sunbathers and game players. Those hotels that were built years ago with the environment in mind, have been rewarded by endless beaches of clean, turquoise sea.

Another asset preserved at Breezes Runaway Bay is the lush green grounds that are an unusual sight and clearly inspire golfers to lace up their shoes and head for the nearby greens. Tennis is another sport actively played by visitors to Breezes Runaway Bay and there are the usual water sports, but my favourite sport at nice Jamaican hotels is resting, so I did a lot of that, watching plasma screen cable TV from my comfy bed.
One thing that kept me close to my room was the wonderful massage shower which sends six jets of water shooting out as you hold the shower attachment overhead. It was so much fun, I found every excuse possible to take a shower in the two days I stayed.

I wanted to experience the Munasan Japanese restaurant, but arrived too late on Friday night to be seated. So we had a quick dinner while listening to a live roots band and excellent female singer who gave guests a taste of first class Jamaican reggae. On Saturday night I felt it was necessary to experience the variety of the hotel buffet, which is always the test of a truly good hotel. I was not disappointed with my choice of lasagna, pizza , roast potatoes and garlic bread, while my friend feasted on lamb stew, braised vegetables and rice with peas and carrots. There's always space for seconds at the buffet, so on my return trip I tried the stew chicken, which was tender and tasty in true Jamaican style.

Special pleasure of my weekend was meeting SuperClubs Marketing Manager Zein Issa and her father John Issa – founder of the SuperClubs 'all-inclusive' concept that revolutionized Jamaican tourism. It was a lighthearted and 'breezy' conversation, as the Honorary Consul and former Senator talked about the hotel's history and amenities. I was surprised to hear that you can get married for free as part of your Breezes Runaway vacation and even more surprised to learn that you can get married underwater if you are a qualified diver, as the hotel has one of the best scuba diving programmes and there are over 14 different dive sites nearby.

As someone who has been visiting the property for many years, I was glad to see that one special feature of Breezes Runaway Bay has been preserved. This is the collection of Rastafari carvings that has adorned the lobby for decades, long before that aspect of Jamaican culture became the popular image of tourism. Mounted on walls and in special alcoves, these priceless treasures embody the true Jamaican flavour of Breezes Runaway Bay.

Located half way between Ocho Rios and Montego Bay, Breezes Runaway Bay is moderately priced, and welcomes families with children 14 years and older for whom there are games and diversions, including the beach – which Breezes boasts is 'the best on the northern coast of Jamaica”. All facilities are included, especially the 18 hole par 72 championship golf course and lessons for those who need them. The hotel is close to all the main North Coast attractions such as Dunns River Falls, Chukka Cove and Mystic Mountain.

Another diversion is the Circus Workshop with real circus rigging and nets, which gives you a chance to try out the flying trapeze if you're feeling adventurous, but as I am not one of those daring people, I just passed as far away as I could in case someone tried to talk me into a trial run.

Sunday afternoon came far too early and it was hard to pack and get back on the road, after such a restful and breezy stay at Breezes Runaway Bay. We will return soon.

THE SPANISH COURT HOTEL, KINGSTON

A Kingston overnight presents challenges to the out-of-town businesswoman. Some hotels are too big, with lobbies always overflowing with event traffic. Others are too small, more suitable for those on more private appointments. In choosing one to meet professional needs, the unaccompanied lady has few appropriate selections.

The Spanish Court Hotel, Kingston’s newest, is one such option -- an oasis of beauty and comfort in the middle of bustling New Kingston that is small enough to avoid that ‘lost’ feeling, while sociable enough to be a preferred resting spot and meeting place for those who value being surrounded on all sides by aspects of beauty. For indeed, everything within the Spanish Court Hotel is quite simply Beautiful, with a capital B.

The Spanish Court is the major opus of Realtor Chris Issa, whose family n ame is synonymous with Jamaica’s hotel industry. This is his first venture into the business and it is quite a spectacular entrance. It is clear that, faced with the reality of transforming a small shopping plaza into a 3-storey hotel, Chris Issa made bold decisions that the beauty of the design and décor would compensate for its compact size. So at every turn and level, the Spanish Court Hotel presents eye candy, whether in the welcoming red walls surrounding the burnished gold Reception Desk, or the startling turquoise and black silk shag carpet that complements the clear blue glass vases and bottles decorating the shelves of the Library/Sitting Room.

The glass-windowed ground floor public areas are divided only by floor-to-ceiling angled wooden louvers that separate the spaces psychologically while allowing free access to breezes and views of the beautiful interiors. Bold colours, dark brown wood, lounge chairs in Zebra patterns or bright blues, and Lucite-backed chairs of modern design blend harmoniously against the muted lighting from gauze-draped windows. Chandeliers are unexpected and black and white photographs decorate red walls.

Along the corridor to my room, the wall around each door was painted a different colour that added a bright lift. Entry to my room was even more impressive. First the bellman inserted the plastic key into the door and opened it, then he inserted the card into a slot by the door and the electricity came on while he explained that each time I left the room and removed the key, all the electricity in the room would be turned off. That nice environmental touch prefaced what lay ahead.

My bed had six pillows, four covered in delightful Egyptian cotton, two decorated in green linen and red silk to match the red silk duvet at the foot of the bed. Big wooden drawers were matched by wooden (not metal or plastic!) wastebaskets. In the bathroom Kohler basin and fixtures fed a bath that was not coffin-shaped, but oval with arm rests that made me glad I had packed my Starfish Oils bath salts. The Rusk Sensories soaps and shampoos are sweet-smelling and creamy. In the fridge were bottles of water and a plate of sliced fruits and as I nibbled, a knock at the door introduced housekeeper Ayesha bearing a thick cotton pique bathrobe. The huge flat screen TV tempted, but business called and I headed for my appointment.

Returning late afternoon, it was time to enjoy a cool juice on the deck surveying the unique beauty of water flowing over the edges of the turquoise-tiled lap pool that deserves to be used -– such a good idea for the limited space. The view over New Kingston’s towers stretched further as the city’s light twinkled on and it was time for dinner.

My girlfriend postponed her catch-up news as she ooh-ed and ahh-ed about how beautiful the hotel was. We dined on thick and spicy pumpkin soup sprinkled with parsley, a balsam vinaigrette salad, then snapper in rich, creamy coconut sauce with cauliflower and carrots and rice and peas. Yumm. No space for dessert and no thanks to coffee, just water please, as Bridgette, the black-uniformed dining room staff hovered professionally.

My night’s rest enjoyed the comfort of the sheets and the total darkness that the drawn blinds provided, a welcome inkiness that made me rise afresh next morning. Ten laps on foot around (not, unfortunately, in) the lap pool on the deck gave me the equivalent of my regular morning walk and soon it was time to descend to breakfast. The dining room was abuzz with accents – Spanish, American, French – as I assembled fruit, yoghurt, toast and boiled egg from the buffet. At the table next to me, Jamaican breakfast was ordered, while staff offered newspapers and coffee.

Heading upstairs to pack, I was greeted by Lee Ann Godfrey, the Spanish Court’s manager, who comes to Kingston after 6 ½ years at Beaches Boscobel in St. Mary. She tells me that the hotel’s décor designer is Allison Antrobus, daughter of noted Jamaican Women’s Bureau pioneer Peggy Antrobus. Two generations of strong, creative Jamaican women have resulted in a beautiful, classy and modernistic hotel in which this particular Jamaican woman feels so at home. Having a female manager is another plus and Lee Ann tells me bookings are looking very healthy.

As I sat reading the glossy coffee table books as an excuse to enjoy the cool turquoise and blue colours of the Library, I could see that I was not the only person impressed by this beautiful little hotel, as I was the subject of several of the many photographs that arriving guests and sightseers were taking of the decor all the time I was there. I will return to the Spanish Court Hotel. This time I will bring my swimsuit for the lap pool.

SLEEPING OVER – HOLIDAY INN SUNSPREE – ROSE HALL

It’s been a long time since I last stayed at the Holiday Inn, Rose Hall and it’s always good to see how properties have ‘grown up’ as new owners make changes and improvements. In the years since it first opened, this property has changed hands several times and is currently owned by Octagon Hotels Ltd. The Hendrickson family, Jamaican operators of the Courtleigh and Knutsford Court Hotels in Kingston, purchased the hotel last year August, renovated the property completely and re-opened to the public in October 2008 as the Holiday Inn Sunspree, a family all-inclusive.

Finding that the hotel offers local rates of an affordable US$85 per person per night with children under 12 staying and eating free, we felt it would be a good place for a summer holiday break, so we set out from Kingston and after a pleasant 4-hour drive soon found ourselves arriving via the new highway into Montego Bay, cruising past the verdant gardens and golf courses strung out along the landscaped verges of Rose Hall, before turning into the Holiday Inn Sunspree.

The size of the hotel’s 524 rooms spread several tower blocks was awe-inspiring and the lobby was full of arriving guests moving about, but the welcome smile from check-in clerk Marsha Watson was just as large. A fruit punch was offered and Bellman Wayne walked us through the flowering gardens lined by Royal Palms to the lift for our tower block. The rooms set on the 3rd floor faced the sea and we opened the sliding door to let in the fresh breezes, hoping there would be no mosquitoes flying in at night. Thankfully, there weren’t.

MOBAY NIGHT LIFE
With Mobay’s night life within easy reach, we opted to spend our first evening at the nearby Rose Hall Aqueduct venue enjoying the opening night of the CCGI entertainment festival. The event, organized to raise funds for school computer labs, included an excellent dance tableau of Jamaican music through the ages choreographed by L’Antoinette Stynes, a stellar performance by Tessanne Chin, and the music of reggae band Chalice and it was lovely to relax and enjoy the cool breezes, lively company and good music.

It’s always nice to return to a hotel room to find the beds turned down. This simple act puts a hotel in a certain class, and it was good to see this sign at the Holiday Inn. We rose early for buffet breakfast in the huge dining room and noticed that perhaps half the guests were Black people from America, Canada, Britain or Jamaica. This made the hotel feel very comfortable for us vacationing Jamaicans and it was clear that the staff was used to giving both Black and White guests equal treatment.

ZIPLINE CANOPY TOUR
Breakfast over, we boarded a bus that had come to take us to the start of our holiday adventure. We had chosen the Chukka Zipline Canopy Tour, as this was something new for us Jamaicans who have experienced all the usual attractions. I am scared of heights, but everyone was ready for the adventure. After a rocky ride up into the hills of the Rose Hall estate, we arrived at the start where a bright young man named David McLean welcomed us all in a manner so enthusiastic, so happy and so Jamaican that it was clear that this was going to be a special experience for us all. David carefully strapped and buckled us into safety harnesses, hard hats and gloves, explained in detail the procedures and safety measures, then took us to a platform on the edge of the hillside covered densely with tall trees.

Attached to one such tree was a wire attached to another tree in the distance with another platform. David clipped us one at a time to the wire and we each slid with gravity momentum to a platform at the other end of the wire. Then hooked the next wires, we continued sliding our way in rapid descent from one platform to the next through the forest, screaming at the exhilarating thrill of being both in danger and safe at the same time. One scream-making slide went perfectly vertically from up to down in seconds. Another brought a bright vista of the luxurious Rose Hall residential community and the far away seascape.

The screams that accompanied each zipline journey were mixed with joy and excitement, and the visitors from California, Ohio and Germany (including a 10 year old boy) were full of praise when it ended, saying the adrenaline rush and the spectacular views made a great first-time vacation experience.

After the tour, I spoke with the other personality-plus young Jamaicans Tricia Knott, Wendy Sutherland and Monique Griffiths who run the tour office, who told me there are special discounts for Jamaicans on all Chukka Tours, which include two other Zipline tours at Montpelier and Llandovery in St. James, plus their River Tubing, Bike and Jeep Safaris and the Horse Ride & Swim. For me, it was wonderful to just be in the middle of the Jamaican countryside, with views of rolling hills and green trees undisturbed for miles.

POOLSIDE ENTERTAINMENT
We could do nothing but rest when we returned to the Holiday Inn. Descending to dinner, we found a sumptuous buffet laid out that included a variety of dishes for my vegetarian taste including grilled eggplant, scalloped potatoes, vegetable risotto, salmon steaks and a wide variety of salads. Elsewhere on the buffet table were leg of lamb, pasta and pizza, burritos, jerk chicken and pork, plus a wide selection of creamy pastries, cheeses and fruit. I couldn’t help going for seconds.



With full stomachs, we joined the other guests resting post-dinner around the pool. The dining room verandah and upstairs balconies, as well as poolside lounge chairs that had earlier held sun tanned bodies, became front row seats for an excellent evening’s entertainment on the well-positioned pool stage. We were pleasantly pleased to enjoy some excellent Jamaican performers, beginning with the Magic Moment jazz band that played a very professional set, singer Dennis Smith and especially a vibrant young steel band that was more orchestra than just plain pan. At the end of their performance the foreign guests flocked them to purchase CDs and Videos, having been asked prior to their performance to respect their copyright rights and not film them. Wise artist management!

SOL MER SPA
All packed next morning and with a big breakfast over, I decided not to leave without indulging myself in the ultimate luxury -- a pedicure. So with a few more hours to checkout I visited the hotel’s Sol Mer Spa and relaxed, while 24-year old Tevon Green demonstrated the cosmetology skills he learnt at the MoBay HEART Academy with a salt, sugar and coffee foot scrub before painting on some delicate pink toenail polish. Never had a man do my pedicure before, but believe me, it was excellent!

All too soon the restful country break was over. Just a few more moments to feast our eyes on the blue sea, white sand beach and the endless sunshine that people pay so much money to come and enjoy. For us there were no tickets to buy, no flight to catch, just a promise to do this more often – take a vacation in our own Beautiful Jamaica.

A GRAND TIME IN NEGRIL

April 2010
The drought drove us to Breezes Negril. Or to be more accurate, because of the drought, we drove all the way to Negril to find water. Where better to quench our thirst for endless baths and showers of fresh water, than a hotel as far away from Kingston as possible. Where better, than Negril, with endless beaches and endless rooms. Only problem – selecting just one hotel from the many, many excellent ones strung out along the seven miles of white sand.

For some reason, the name SuperClubs Grand Lido sprang to mind as the most 'grand' of them all and we searched the phone book for the number, only to find that the Grand Lido is now re-named Breezes Grand Resort and Spa, Negril. However, since it is still part of the SuperClubs all-inclusive chain of Jamaican-owned hotels, we made our booking with confidence that everything would be the same guaranteed good services of SuperClubs reputation, even if the name was changed.

We set off via Stony Hill and Castleton to enter the North Coast Highway at Annotto Bay and onwards, enjoying the blessing of the smooth dual-lane surface that gets you to Montego Bay in no time at all. Just as we were becoming anxious, rain started falling and we Kingston folk who had not seen the miracle for many weeks, rejoiced. The rain was definitely a good omen.

Negril was wet and quiet as we turned into the Breezes Grand driveway, parked and entered the Grand Lobby. A vaulted ceiling dominated by an ornate chandelier covered a pink marble reception area where we were greeted, then shown to our rooms. As we headed out through the dining room, we saw that the rain had caused the night's beach barbecue dinner to be moved indoors, much to the disappointment of SuperClubs VP Suzanne McManus who was hosting a travel documentary film crew from the Basque region of Spain. “Beach Barbecue is our most spectacular night,” she explained. “It would have looked so LOVELY!” The empty white-tablecloth-covered tables with torches lining the beach were silent proof of her words.

It was a long walk to our rooms in the night, but early morning showed why. The rooms of Breezes Grand all face the beautiful turquoise sea, strung out in front of approximately one mile of Negril's white sand beach that belongs exclusively to Breezes Negril. It's the largest single-owned stretch of beach in Negril with a small cliff at one end that forms a natural barrier, so your privacy is not invaded by joggers, walkers, vendors or hustlers using the beach as a road from one end to another.

Slowly the early sun woke up the world before the glorious beach that seemed stretch endlessly in the distance. Groundsmen raked the sand and re-arranged the beach chairs in neat rows. Workers pushed trolleys of drinks, glasses, ice and more to the beach bar, ready for the day's demands. Then slowly, as breakfast time ended, the beach chairs were covered in twos with sun worshipping vacationers, occasionally rising to immerse themselves in the aquamarine water with smiles of joy, then return to their sun tans with smiles on their faces. At one end of the beach a volleyball game was in progress, while in another spot scuba divers waited with oxygen tanks for the yacht taking them out to the reef. A para-sail billowed past in the sky, its passenger wiggling her feet happily.

For me, there is no place more wonderful than the sea at Negril. Here at Breezes Negril the sea was shallow for quite a distance, making it pleasant to enjoy the water endlessly. When I felt like resting, the beach-side bartender was happy to make me blended natural fruit punches as often as I could drink them. There were crisp chicken patties at the bar and nachos with cheese which the children happily gorged on. Soon it was time to taste the expertise of the dining room's pasta chef at lunchtime, who produced an excellent Chicken Alfredo which I accompanied with a tossed salad and some biscuits and Brie.

Then it was time to explore the grounds and gardens, which is how I discovered a small cafe hidden away near the tennis courts with a wonderful collection of Rastafari carvings, including a beautiful small statue of Bob Marley. I have noticed from an earlier visit to Breezes Runaway Bay that SuperClubs is a big supporter of Jamaican carved art, and the artist selling craft on the beach said most of the works on display were done by his son. I asked and was told the cafe is only used for small, occasional functions and I am recommending it be re-named the Rasta Rest.

Next morning I enjoyed the delights of a Jamaican luxury hotel breakfast buffet, with choices of orange juice, assorted fruits, rice crispies, ackee and saltfish, smoked salmon and capers, French Toast, English scones, croissants, guava jam and Blue Mountain coffee. Our table was serviced by young trainee Devane Bernard who told me his apprenticeship was coming to an end that week and he hoped he had done well enough to get a permanent job. I heartily recommended him to the hotel's manager, Andre Dhanpaul, who came over to my table to ask how I was enjoying my stay.

Mr. Dhanpaul is a Guyanese-born Jamaican who took a summer job at a Negril hotel on graduation from Glenmuir High School “... and never looked back”. He has been in the hotel business for more than 20 years, working with all the major Jamaican hotel chains and says: “I love this Breezes Grand, because the staff here are some of the finest I have ever worked with.” Sue McManus, saying goodbye to the Spanish film crew, also stops by to say: “Are you OK? Is there anything you need?” then arranges an Internet link for me to check my email.

It's ending all too soon. I take one last look at the beach, glistening in all its bright turquoise beauty. The breeze is blowing ripples of waves to the shore. In the far distance jet skis race a trail of white foam across the sea. Just one moment more to hear the tinkle of ice in the sunbathers' glasses and the sound of reggae pumping its familiar rhythm, then it's time to leave Breezes. The name change has made no difference to its claim to the title “Grand” and 'grand' it certainly was to have been there.

Laura Facey's new sculpture works

Laura Facey is undoubtedly the most talented Jamaican sculptor today, and perhaps of all time -- Edna Manley's fame and reputation notwithstanding. Her infamous Emancipation Park nude statues have been described by many an inappropriate way of commemorating the end of the enslavement of Africans in Jamaica, but nevertheless the monument is a great work of sculptural art and in my opinion deserves a location where it can be admired for that quality, rather than villified as an prime encouragement to the slackness and lewdness that characterizes Jamaican social behaviour today.

Unmoved by the criticism, Laura Facey continues to build on her amazing body of works that first caught my attention with the stylized curves of her 'Woman' that stands out in the University of Technology's Sculpture Garden and may certainly have inspired UTECH student Usain Bolt on his way to and from training.

I was pleased to be among the guests at Laura's verdant farm outside Ocho Rios, where rolling fields, herds of cattle, sprightly horses and rows of vegetables surround a modestly sized, well-preserved stone and wood great house and provided the setting for her newest exhibition, aptly entitled "Where I Stand".  Inside the beautifully preserved house Laura Facey's new works were displayed on the mahogany wood floors and the painted wood walls.

Carved from the abundant cedar forests that surround her farm, Laura's works are massive, delicate carvings from the fragrant wood, some arranged in natural state according to the artist's inspiration, others functioning as massive slab wood 'canvases' for the sculptor's art.  The first impression was one of awe-inspiring size as can be seen from the picture of the piece "Poinsettia".  There were chairs seemingly sliced from the tree trunk that curved around its inlaid seat.

Center of the exhibition was 'Blue Rose", a floor arrangement of rippling petals of wood tinged with indigo centers, arranged in a rose formation.  Only a picture can describe the beauty and conception of this piece.

The exhibition was well attended by people with pockets big enough to afford the high prices of these unique pieces, but I sincerely hope that at least one piece finds its way into the National Gallery where admirers of Laura Facey's work can lead their children and grandchildren to be inspired by the excellence of the artist's immense sculptural creativity.