A GRAND TIME IN NEGRIL

April 2010
The drought drove us to Breezes Negril. Or to be more accurate, because of the drought, we drove all the way to Negril to find water. Where better to quench our thirst for endless baths and showers of fresh water, than a hotel as far away from Kingston as possible. Where better, than Negril, with endless beaches and endless rooms. Only problem – selecting just one hotel from the many, many excellent ones strung out along the seven miles of white sand.

For some reason, the name SuperClubs Grand Lido sprang to mind as the most 'grand' of them all and we searched the phone book for the number, only to find that the Grand Lido is now re-named Breezes Grand Resort and Spa, Negril. However, since it is still part of the SuperClubs all-inclusive chain of Jamaican-owned hotels, we made our booking with confidence that everything would be the same guaranteed good services of SuperClubs reputation, even if the name was changed.

We set off via Stony Hill and Castleton to enter the North Coast Highway at Annotto Bay and onwards, enjoying the blessing of the smooth dual-lane surface that gets you to Montego Bay in no time at all. Just as we were becoming anxious, rain started falling and we Kingston folk who had not seen the miracle for many weeks, rejoiced. The rain was definitely a good omen.

Negril was wet and quiet as we turned into the Breezes Grand driveway, parked and entered the Grand Lobby. A vaulted ceiling dominated by an ornate chandelier covered a pink marble reception area where we were greeted, then shown to our rooms. As we headed out through the dining room, we saw that the rain had caused the night's beach barbecue dinner to be moved indoors, much to the disappointment of SuperClubs VP Suzanne McManus who was hosting a travel documentary film crew from the Basque region of Spain. “Beach Barbecue is our most spectacular night,” she explained. “It would have looked so LOVELY!” The empty white-tablecloth-covered tables with torches lining the beach were silent proof of her words.

It was a long walk to our rooms in the night, but early morning showed why. The rooms of Breezes Grand all face the beautiful turquoise sea, strung out in front of approximately one mile of Negril's white sand beach that belongs exclusively to Breezes Negril. It's the largest single-owned stretch of beach in Negril with a small cliff at one end that forms a natural barrier, so your privacy is not invaded by joggers, walkers, vendors or hustlers using the beach as a road from one end to another.

Slowly the early sun woke up the world before the glorious beach that seemed stretch endlessly in the distance. Groundsmen raked the sand and re-arranged the beach chairs in neat rows. Workers pushed trolleys of drinks, glasses, ice and more to the beach bar, ready for the day's demands. Then slowly, as breakfast time ended, the beach chairs were covered in twos with sun worshipping vacationers, occasionally rising to immerse themselves in the aquamarine water with smiles of joy, then return to their sun tans with smiles on their faces. At one end of the beach a volleyball game was in progress, while in another spot scuba divers waited with oxygen tanks for the yacht taking them out to the reef. A para-sail billowed past in the sky, its passenger wiggling her feet happily.

For me, there is no place more wonderful than the sea at Negril. Here at Breezes Negril the sea was shallow for quite a distance, making it pleasant to enjoy the water endlessly. When I felt like resting, the beach-side bartender was happy to make me blended natural fruit punches as often as I could drink them. There were crisp chicken patties at the bar and nachos with cheese which the children happily gorged on. Soon it was time to taste the expertise of the dining room's pasta chef at lunchtime, who produced an excellent Chicken Alfredo which I accompanied with a tossed salad and some biscuits and Brie.

Then it was time to explore the grounds and gardens, which is how I discovered a small cafe hidden away near the tennis courts with a wonderful collection of Rastafari carvings, including a beautiful small statue of Bob Marley. I have noticed from an earlier visit to Breezes Runaway Bay that SuperClubs is a big supporter of Jamaican carved art, and the artist selling craft on the beach said most of the works on display were done by his son. I asked and was told the cafe is only used for small, occasional functions and I am recommending it be re-named the Rasta Rest.

Next morning I enjoyed the delights of a Jamaican luxury hotel breakfast buffet, with choices of orange juice, assorted fruits, rice crispies, ackee and saltfish, smoked salmon and capers, French Toast, English scones, croissants, guava jam and Blue Mountain coffee. Our table was serviced by young trainee Devane Bernard who told me his apprenticeship was coming to an end that week and he hoped he had done well enough to get a permanent job. I heartily recommended him to the hotel's manager, Andre Dhanpaul, who came over to my table to ask how I was enjoying my stay.

Mr. Dhanpaul is a Guyanese-born Jamaican who took a summer job at a Negril hotel on graduation from Glenmuir High School “... and never looked back”. He has been in the hotel business for more than 20 years, working with all the major Jamaican hotel chains and says: “I love this Breezes Grand, because the staff here are some of the finest I have ever worked with.” Sue McManus, saying goodbye to the Spanish film crew, also stops by to say: “Are you OK? Is there anything you need?” then arranges an Internet link for me to check my email.

It's ending all too soon. I take one last look at the beach, glistening in all its bright turquoise beauty. The breeze is blowing ripples of waves to the shore. In the far distance jet skis race a trail of white foam across the sea. Just one moment more to hear the tinkle of ice in the sunbathers' glasses and the sound of reggae pumping its familiar rhythm, then it's time to leave Breezes. The name change has made no difference to its claim to the title “Grand” and 'grand' it certainly was to have been there.